photographs by Christopher James

Everytime I see something new from Charlie Le Mindu, I can't help but say 'this is his best work yet' or something to that effect. For the last three seasons of his participation in London Fashion Week, he's blown us all away with the artistry and plain ridonkulousness of his creations.

This season though, Charlie has shown something more mature; more sophisticated, and in his own words, more French (or, a little English guard-esque as it were below - but of a much more sexy and fashionable variety, of course). Blonds, brunettes and even redheads were out this season, instead Charlie made his girls out in silky, inky black locks.

The lovely Grace Joel was in attendance for me and this is what she had to say:

East London’s club kids were up early, as London Fashion Week kicked off with Charlie Le Mindu’s extravaganza. With the energetic and amazingly dressed audience - their own hair coloured, sprayed and shaved to perfection - watched Charlie’s ever more impressive hair cascading from wigs, hair pieces and capes showed his unique skill and creativity. Shiny black manes covered crucifixes, fabergé eggs and black lacquered roses, all having been given Charlie’s magic touch. It was thrilling and filled the void that Gareth Pugh left when he packed up for Paris. It was an upbeat, optimistic start to the week, with the youth, creativity and optimism that London Fashion Week is all about!

*LAAARGGH* amazing. Below is the Fabergé egg all tricked out in Swarovski crystals (who get heavily involved with many designers' work), and hair so black and straight, all y'all light haired girls who be permed and waved out will kill yourselves for these locks that are dead straight and shiny-as-the-damn-crystals.

In a development on the rat-pelt 'hijab' Charlie did in his first season, this time round he's gone from ratty to foxy, YES YES that be bonafide fox ladies and gents, blinged up with blue Swarovski crystals in their eyes.

Luxurious, excessive and utterly fabulous (don't you die for the bag too? By Charlotte Hardwick).

Here check it, On | Off's video of the show, and a gallery of all the amazing looks below that - sick soundtrack by Kap Bambino of course:

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Neon is always a fun party favourite. This was a very flashy collection which made plenty of noise with it's loud prints, bright colours and flamboyantly literal interpretation of animals in some of the pieces in the collection.

The Neon models are always instructed to strut it out nice and strong which is always fun to watch. As usual I liked the simplicity of the hair and make-up as well as the super playful accessories including some excellent headwear on show - though I didn't dig the fishy shoes. The Neon woman needs to have a personality as bold as the clothing, otherwise you could be in danger of the clothes wearing you instead of the other way round...

Beautiful rich colours in lush combinations as usual, one area in which Neon never disappoints - working looks that will brighten anyone's day from grey London to sunny Sydney.

Gorgeous detail in their prints using a riot of strong colours

Break down the styling and you'll find in fact that you have excellent seperates that are very easily wearable.

An entertaining collection that, as usual underneath the showiness, delivered exactly what Neon does best, capable clothes that are simply fun to werk.

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Forum Tufi Duek

Forum Tufi Duek's collection in varying shades of black that was easily made fluid and light with a great mix of textures and subtle lowlight colours with a range of super on point silhouettes and shapes.

Lara Stone was imported to walk the runway, and appeared in two pretty much identical looks, except for the colours. Whilst not being a ground breaking collection by any means, it was certainly bang on trend, and I really liked the clean and unfussy styling and the equally unfussy but strong shoes. 

Love the platform and banana heel ankle boots.

Rather simple and safe lines but most definitely a no-brainer when it comes to ease of wear and given some interest with the juxtaposition of textures in the top and skirt.

A great wedge platform coupled with these ace black trousers (if you can't tell, I really did love the shoes in this show, they're totally great solid, staple kinda footwear).

And for a more femme black number is this sweet little dress.

An easily consumable - without being junkfood - collection, all in all.

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I found Maria Bonita's latest collection appealing very much to my own wardrobe (well, except for maybe those shoes. I don't wear no granny shoes, no matter how youthful their colour be - but in this case, these shoes still can't be saved by being brightly coloured). 'Square' is given a desirable twist by Bonita, with squares being lazercut into trousers, coats and dresses, collars in salor-esque squares, even lot of the same coloured squares - or perhaps they were rectangles - pieced together to make a witty and effortlessly casual dress and blazer combo; yet all still without being too literal.

Cool and breezy; this collection is almost even a little smug in it's well executed and coherent articulation...Maria Bonita made it hip to be square.

Perhaps a little breezy in the winter, but that's what layers are for!

Backstage action. I have to say, those shoes are particularly ugly in red. Sorray.

Interesting hood/collar combo

Very cute and light sweater dress. Don't sweat the square stuff. No chance of that wearing this number in winter.

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You, faithful readers, will know Danny Sangra now, we introduced you to him earlier this week with the amazing background he has done for us this month. We mentioned that we'd be posting about his new label, AMS, and now, it's our pleasure to present A Minute Silence's debut capsule knitwear collection for AW 2010, a unisex collection of knitted cardigans, jumpers, blankets and socks!

Being launched during London Fashion Week, entitled The Gun and The Girl, AMS is a result of the powers combined between Danny and designer Lynn Cockburn aka Lynnda Needles. The two of them they have worked with, amongst others, Louis Vuitton, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Wintle and Carolyn Massey. 

AMS holds onto the classic silhouette of cardis and jumpers but uses an irresistible and undeniably cool clash of colour and pattern that can hardly be called traditional; yet it's produced by the same British heritage knitwear company that knits for Her Maj the Queen, so you know it's pretty bloody posh. And being called 'investment pieces' on the release also means it's most likely pretty bloody expensive, but you'll be wearing a piece of knitted art, after all.

You need never wear a horribly printed cardigan in irony or even post-irony ever again.

OH HIYA JESSY (of FAJ fame)

Super cool lookbook shots as treated by AMS themselves, innit.

Not only can Fanny and Jessy design clothes but they can WERK 'em too.

OH HAI FANNY (also of FAJ fame)

Super cosy knitted goodness for your feet.

We told you that Danny has skills, didn't we! Check some more of the capsule collection in the gallery.

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Osklen is a very long and well established Brasilian label (and one of the few that is sold and has stores outside of Brasil) by sport medicine specialist turned designer Oskar Metsavaht.

This latest collection was an interesting one; the garments giving the models an opportunity to take the phrase 'looks good in a cardboard box' to another level - in a good way. Some pieces also reminded me of the tumbling mats when I used to do gymnastics; with their paradoxically foamy soft / robo-armor aesthetic. This collection could be for the would be eco-warrior of the fashion forward kind.

Architectural shoulders, making your head look like it's peeping over a wall.

A softer look; a maxi dress with a touch of toucan

Yay or nay to the peep toe man boot?

I enjoyed the seemingly random, casual and chunky crumples and folds in the

short sleeved jacket; whilst it still retained a light feel, nicely contrasted by the silky sheer texture of the bottom layers.

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Sheer, sheer goodness - as I love me anything black and sheer. And the latest R. Groove collection delivers all that and more. Designer Rique Gonçalves burst onto the Brazilian fashion scene in 2007, and has since been a rising star. Producing one of the most interesting collections in the Fashion Rio season, he's been collecting numerous awards for his work since he debuted, including what's considered the Oscars of fashion awards in Brazil: being named Breakthrough Fashion Designer (alongside Alexandre Herchcovitch who received Best Menswear Designer that year) in 2008.

This collection includes a number of elements that I have particular soft spots for: black sheer fabrics, boiler suits, and (more recent fave), wetsuits for land-lubbing...AND some Na'vi-esque coiffure action!

Knit shorts and a lightly quilted, zippered water bottle shaped cape. Odd at first glance, but actually clever when thinking of the Brazilian climate.

Love a good boiler suit...

And for all you fashion forward Aqua Men out there - the half wetsuit topped with a sheer hoodie.

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Backstage @ Alessa

Being a musicky kind of person, the Alessa show made me smile; bright, upbeat and a little bit shambolic in a sort of happily rock and roll way, Alessa was full of fun pieces destined to draw comment from even the most fashion blind of people.

With prints that were verging on cheesy, in a 90s, Blossom-esque fashion, made up of flowers and musical instruments amongst other things that were haphazardly cut and pasted together. Colourful vinyls were made into neck pieces and earrings, and a plethora of stacked jewellery adorned wrists, ears and decolletages.

Voluminous top-knotted hair and fierce black brows to go along with the collection.

Sweet texture on the knit dresses

Whilst not exactly an original concept, this saxophone printed mini dress is fun.

The keyboard backed ramp down to the runway.

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